NATO, leather or canvas: what is the difference for a military watch?
The nylon NATO strap is the most faithful to the original spirit, since it was born in British barracks. The canvas strap, a more refined cousin of military nylon, follows the same lineage with denser weaves and more careful finishing.
Leather, finally, gives this military vocabulary a dressier look. It comes in three forms: the leather NATO, which keeps the strap passing under the case; the classic two-piece strap; or the Bund strap, mounted on a wide leather pad inherited from aviators.
The choice between these three materials depends above all on how the watch will be worn:
- For rugged, sporty or summer everyday wear, the NATO is the benchmark: lightweight, it dries quickly and can be cleaned in lukewarm water;
- The canvas strap continues this casual approach while adding more structure and visual character;
- Leather comes into its own when a military watch needs to be more discreet with formal attire, its surface developing a patina over time.
The G10 NATO strap, a legacy of the British Ministry of Defence
In 1973, the British Ministry of Defence issued its armed forces with a strict specification, known as standard 66-15. This strap, which soldiers had to requisition using the G10 form, would become the NATO. Nylon replaced leather, which was considered too fragile in humid tropical climates. Originally, “Admiralty Grey” was the only authorised colour.
This was no trivial choice: in the field, a watch is a vital instrument, and its strap cannot afford to fail. The double pass under the case reflects this military requirement: if a spring bar broke, the watch stayed on the wrist instead of falling off in combat.
Out of this functional constraint came an aesthetic that is instantly recognisable today. Cinema played its part, with a nuance that enthusiasts know well.
In Goldfinger, in 1964, Sean Connery wears a Rolex Submariner on a navy, green and red striped nylon strap. It is not a NATO: the G10 would not exist for another nine years, and Bond’s strap is a simple single-piece band, which is in fact a little too narrow for the lug width of his watch. The pattern is nonetheless sold today as the “Bond NATO”, and it has firmly linked military fabric with British sporting elegance.
Choosing a NATO strap for a military watch is therefore a way of reconnecting with this precise heritage: a standard born in the army, handed down from generation to generation, which still equips tool watches and collector’s timepieces alike, as seen in the military watch collection that carries on this aesthetic language.
In our workshop, we chose the NATO to dress the Normandie 1944 collection. The choice may seem surprising, since this strap post-dates the Second World War. But over time, it is this strap that became the icon of military watches.
To extend its lifespan, we recommend pairing it with a deployant clasp. The strap is always the right size, and you avoid sliding it through its keepers every time you put the watch on, a repeated friction that wears the fabric out faster.
The canvas strap, the everyday field watch option
Canvas refers to a denser, more structured weave than the thin nylon of a classic NATO. This construction changes how the strap feels: it keeps a fabric-like lightness but holds its shape better on the wrist. That is what makes it a natural match for field watches, the family of outdoor watches descended from military models.
When it comes to colour, canvas features the historic shades of the military palette: khaki, dark brown, navy, black or ecru. These understated colours clearly signal field inspiration without going overboard. The tang buckle, usually in steel, completes this sober look by blending in with the finish of the case.
The leather strap, a dressier look for a military watch
On a military watch, leather brings what a nylon NATO or canvas cannot offer: a patinated, almost inherited elegance. Fabric stands for ruggedness and field use; the leather strap, on the other hand, tells the story of a tool watch that has become an heirloom.
Calfskin and nubuck are the most common materials. Smooth or lightly grained, they develop a patina over time, soften on the wrist and take on a colour unique to the wearer, most often brown or black.
Some models keep the NATO construction, a single piece of leather slipped under the case, while gaining refinement with tone-on-tone stitching and a steel buckle matched to the dial finish. Others adopt the Bund style, detailed below. This dressier look is particularly suited to a field watch worn at the office or at an event, where nylon would look too casual.
Most Col&McArthur watches can be fitted with a leather strap. This is the case with the Armistice 1918, our collection marking the centenary of the Armistice, available with brown, black or blue leather straps.
The downside of this elegance is well known: leather does not like humidity or sweat. For customers who play sports or are regularly physically active, we recommend a steel bracelet instead. Heavy sweating damages leather faster, which means replacing it more often, and therefore costs more in the long run.
Widths are the same as for textile NATO straps, usually 20 mm or 22 mm depending on the case, with a classic tang buckle or a more secure butterfly clasp.
Telling apart the NATO, the ZULU and the leather Bund
Three constructions stand out despite an obvious aesthetic kinship.
- The NATO is the original format born from the 1973 British G10 standard: a single nylon strap that passes entirely under the case, with thin rectangular keepers and a double layer of material behind the watch.
- The ZULU applies the same principle with a thicker fabric and heavier rounded rings, designed to withstand impacts.
- The Bund follows a different logic. Popularised by German military aviators, it takes its name from the Bundeswehr. The two-piece strap is mounted on a wide leather pad that passes under the case and insulates the wrist from direct contact with cold steel, a detail born of the need to protect pilots’ skin.
Unlike the NATO and the ZULU, the Bund is not designed to secure the watch if a spring bar breaks; its role is to insulate the wrist and dress the watch.
Frequently asked questions
How do you clean a nylon or canvas NATO strap?
With lukewarm water and a mild soap, rubbing gently and then leaving it to air-dry, never in a tumble dryer.
Can a leather strap handle water and sweat?
No, leather does not tolerate prolonged moisture. This type of strap is best kept for dry use and avoided for sports or water activities.
Can a NATO strap be fitted to a smartwatch?
Adapters exist for some smartwatch models. However, a classic leather NATO, slipped under the case, generally blocks the sensor’s contact with the skin and is not suited to this type of watch.
What strap width should I choose for a military watch?
Measure the lug width of the case in millimetres. The most common widths are 18, 20, 22 and 24 mm, depending on the type of watch.
